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Foam cleaner bottle, microfibre cloth and midsole brush in a rowSide profile

F-02 — Line F

White Care Kit

Foam cleaner, cloth and a stiff midsole brush. Built for the white uppers and the white rubber under them, which need different things.

$38USD, one-off purchase

Composition

CleanerWater, non-ionic surfactants, preservative. pH 7.0 ± 0.5
BrushPolypropylene bristle, polypropylene handle
Cloth80% polyester, 20% polyamide microfibre

This is not footwear, so the three-row footwear label does not apply. We publish the composition anyway.

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Specification

Everything we measured.

Figures are taken from a size EU 42 unless a range is given, and they are the same figures we hold in production.

Build

01
200 ml pH-neutral foam cleaner, suitable for smooth and coated leather and for cotton canvas.
02
Stiff-bristle brush sized for a midsole, soft cloth for the upper.
03
Contains no bleach and no optical brightener. Both of those make yellowing worse over time.
04
It removes dirt. It does not reverse yellowing, and nothing in this kit claims to.

Chemical compliance

Chromium VI in leather
≤ 3 mg/kg
Azo dyes
Within REACH Annex XVII limits
Nickel release, metal eyelets
Within REACH Annex XVII limits

How this pair is cleaned, and what will not come out.

Smooth and coated leather

  1. 01Take the laces out. They hold most of the dirt and they wash separately.
  2. 02Brush loose dust off dry with a soft brush before any water touches the shoe.
  3. 03Work a pH-neutral foam over the panel with a damp cloth, in circles, one panel at a time.
  4. 04Wipe the foam off with a second cloth, clean and barely damp. Do not let it dry on the leather.
  5. 05Stuff the shoe with paper and dry it away from radiators and sun, for at least twelve hours.
  6. 06On uncoated leather, finish with a colourless cream once a month if the surface looks dry.

Comes out

  • Dust and dry street dirt
  • Dry scuff marks that sit on the surface
  • Water-based food marks caught the same day
  • Salt tide marks from winter pavements
  • Grey transfer from rubbing against a bag or a doorframe

Stays

  • Oil and grease, once absorbed — the surface is porous and the oil goes in, not on
  • Dye lifted from dark denim or a dark car seat into pale leather
  • Ink
  • Deep cuts and abrasions through the finish, which can be filled but not undone
  • Heat damage from drying on a radiator, which shrinks and hardens the fibre permanently
  • Never put these in a washing machine. The drum separates the sole from the upper.
  • Never use bleach or a cleaner containing optical brightener. Both accelerate yellowing.
  • Never dry them with heat.
  • On coated leather, never use a solvent-based cleaner: it lifts the coating along with the mark.

Cotton canvas and woven textile

  1. 01Remove the laces and the insock and wash both separately by hand.
  2. 02Brush dry dirt out of the weave with a medium brush.
  3. 03Work cool water and a little neutral detergent into the fabric with a soft brush, in small circles.
  4. 04Rinse by wiping with a clean damp cloth several times. Do not hold the shoe under a tap.
  5. 05Stuff with white paper — coloured paper transfers dye into wet canvas — and dry in the shade for a full day.

Comes out

  • Mud and dust
  • Most water-based food and drink marks caught early
  • Grass marks, partially
  • Surface grime across the whole upper, which lifts evenly if you treat the whole panel

Stays

  • Oil and grease, which sit between the yarns rather than on them
  • Ink and dye transfer
  • Yellowing of undyed cotton, which bleach makes worse rather than better
  • Stretch: canvas that has given does not come back
  • Never put these in a washing machine or a tumble dryer. Heat and the drum separate the sole from the upper.
  • Never use bleach or a brightener on undyed cotton.
  • Never dry them in direct sun, which drives yellowing.

Rubber midsole and outsole

  1. 01Work a stiff short-bristle brush with foam cleaner along the midsole, not across it.
  2. 02Run the brush into the join between sole and upper, where the grey collects first.
  3. 03Wipe the foam off before it dries, or it leaves a tidemark of its own.
  4. 04For the tread, a brush and plain water is enough. Do not soak the shoe to clean the bottom of it.

Comes out

  • Grey street film, which is most of what makes a white midsole look old
  • Scuffs from kerbs, mostly
  • Marks at the join between sole and upper

Stays

  • Yellowing of the rubber itself, which is oxidation through the material rather than dirt on it
  • Cuts and gouges in the rubber
  • Tar
  • Never use acetone or a solvent on rubber: it softens the compound and it attacks the cement at the join.
  • Never soak a shoe to clean its sole.
  • Never use a whitening product that relies on bleach. It sets the yellow rather than lifting it.